Wednesday, 3 October 2012

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Paris Fashion Week: Day Eight

 The mystery of how the girls will walk - posed previously by Robert Duffy - was finally answered at the Louis Vuitton show as the girls descended onto the catwalk via huge escalators. Marc Jacobs was seeing squares for spring/summer 2013 - and not just on the yellow grid catwalk. Checkered dresses came in short, calf or long lengths, teamed with pointy-toe kitten heels and beehived hairdos tied with scarves. Simple, elegant and Sixties-sleek, the collection was inspired by the work of artist Daniel Buren. "Every season we try to excite by doing something different," said Jacobs backstage after the show.
Updated Wednesday October 3, 8.10am: Who better equipped to get the fashion pack excited on the final day of fashion month than Marc Jacobs? The designer will unveil what will surely be another Louis Vuitton spectacular this morning. Robert Duffy hinted at another full-scale extravaganza when we met him last month - the logistics of models walking was causing him a little concern, so we cannot wait to see what the label has in store for us.
On a very different note, French label APC will present its latest collection later on today - bringing its pared-down insouciant chic to spring/summer 2013. The youthful mood will continue at Miu Miu, when Miuccia Prada will give her younger customers a new wardrobe - featuring the irreverent whimsical signatures she is known for.
Elie Saab will wrap up the month-long fashion marathon at 4.30pm, when we'll see plenty of glittering sequinned-covered gowns perfect for red carpet turns.

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Hedi Slimane Slams Show Criticism


HEDI SLIMANE released an open letter attacking fashion critic Cathy Horyn yesterday, following her review of his debut Saint Laurent show in Paris on Monday. The designer referred to the writer as a "schoolyard bully" in a written rant posted on his official Twitter page.
Horyn had not been invited to Monday's show - the pair have an on-going feud following a piece the journalist wrote back in 2004, in which she implied that Slimane owes his success to Raf Simons - and so had written her most recent review based on pictures of the show.
"I expected more from his debut," she wrote in her blog, adding that his clothes "lacked fashion spirit". She continued: "Meanwhile, its competitors - Balenciaga, Dior, Givenchy, Celine, Lanvin - are having a terrific season."
Slimane's scathing response came later in the day, with the designer accusing Horyn of being "a publicist in disguise".
"In conclusion, and as far as I'm concerned, she will never get a seat at Saint Laurent, but might get two for one at Dior," he wrote, in reference to Horyn's support of Raf Simons. "She should rejoice. I don't mind critics, but they have to come from a fashion critic, not a publicist in disguise. I am quite mesmerised she did get away with it for so many years."
Commenting that "her agenda is seriously thick and perfectly predictable," Slimane also went on to question Horyn's skills as a writer and her fashion sense.
"Miss Horyn is a schoolyard bully and also a little bit of a stand-up comedian," he wrote. "Insiders argue she is an average writer, and a bit provincial, but I disagree, she did some great things. Her biggest achievement so far is a book about Bill Blass, that I haven't read. It might be terrific, and I'll be happy to recommend it, if it helps the sales.
"I also often hear that her sense of style is seriously challenged, providing that she is meant to be an authority in the village. This is totally irrelevant, no one has ever asked for her to be an inspiration to others after all, and likely it would never happen anyway."
Horyn herself has laughed off the criticism: "It's just silly nonsense to me,"  she told WWD.

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